Ramadan kareem

Images of the Mosque at the Citadel. It has many names, one of which is the Blue Mosque.


Today has been the first day of Ramadan – a lunar month that is also one of the months in the Islamic calendar. So last night when the new moon was visible for the first time after sunset we knew that Ramadan began today (Monday, 1st September).

The Islamic calendar has an eleven-day offset from the Gregorian (western) calendar, so the exact timing of Ramadan during the year is variable, sometimes falling in summer and sometimes in winter. The first day of Ramadan too is variable, since Sha’aban, the preceding month, sometimes has 29 days and sometimes 30 days (don’t ask me how it all works, I’ve really no idea – shifting time like shifting sands under your feet - it is all a foreign concept to me, pardon the pun)... Ramadan lasts for 29 or 30 days, as do most lunar months. This year, for better or worse, Ramdan is in high summer. Daylight saving time officially ceased one month early a couple of days ago because of Ramadan.

For Muslims, the holiness of this month comes from the fact that it marks the day when Gabriel started the transmission of God’s message to the prophet Mohammad, fourteen centuries ago. The exact date has never been identified (and I gather Mohammed the Prophet didn’t ever reveal it), but it is believed to be on one of the last ten days of this month, a day which Muslims call Laylat el-Qadr and which is considered the holiest day of the year. According to Islam, the month is dedicated to prayers, as it is believed that it is an occasion “to wash one’s sins away and enjoy God’s unlimited mercy”.

The principal ritual during Ramadan is fasting. This entails abandoning eating, drinking, smoking or sinning, even if minor, throughout the whole day, from dawn to sunset. Also no kissing or “relations” of any sort between the sexes, even those who are married. This year, that means from 4.00 am until 6.20 pm.

Last night Mohamed had been out meeting with the drivers and then having coffee with friends so he didn’t get home until 1.30 am. I had been too tired to wait up so was asleep although I heard him tiptoe in to change, but he then stayed up resting and praying until 3.15 am when he woke me up. We quickly got a meal ready and finished it so that Mohamed fitted in one last cigarette right on 4.00 am. I was so stuffed with food, even though I just had cereal and juice and water, and more water, that I had trouble sleeping because my belly was so full it was hurting. Although we’d thought to sleep late, for some reason neither of us slept well and I got up just after 8.30 am with Mohamed about an hour later.

Mohamed was out and about for most of the day but I had my usual house cleaning to do and then we both worked at getting the iftar meal ready. We timed it perfectly so that as soon as we heard the call from the mosque we were able to begin. I was really fine and not hungry during the day but I did get very thirsty and dry in the mouth. So I found it easier than I thought but I suspect that was just the first day and maybe it won’t always be that easy. In fact I could only eat a small meal, although I have had plenty to drink.

Mohamed has had to go out again this evening to meet one of the drivers so he will pray at home tonight although on other nights I think he intends to go to the mosque.

Though the usual daily practice is in most ways normal, Muslims prefer to spend more time praying or reading the Qura’an, particularly at night, and Mohamed will normally go to the mosque at 9.00 pm. Most Muslims also aim to read the entire Qura’an during the month as well. The traditional practice starts immediately after sunset, which is announced to people through all mosques by the ritual azan, or the call for prayers. Because the new mosque opened just down the road from us on Friday we can hear the call loud and clear.

The daily meals become limited to two, the first of which is the iftar, when fasting is broken just after sunset. The timing of the second meal, sohour, is variable according to what you feel like or what your plans are, but is usually delayed as much as possible until just before dawn. In between iftar and sohour, people are allowed to eat as they choose. For me, I snacked on grapes and fruit juice and water and water.

What makes this month different in Egypt? Well, from everything I can gather, a long time ago, Egyptians adopted certain social habits during this month that are not directly related to religion. Officially, the working hours are lessened to allow more time for prayers. Tourist attractions and offices close earlier. People usually sleep very late and spend considerable time in the mosques. Mohamed says that traffic is even more chaos and congestion in the afternoon because EVERYONE is trying to get home at the same time to break their fast as soon as allowed.

Once, beginning in the 16th century, it was the habit of the Egyptian government to fire a canon which could be heard throughout Cairo to announce end of the daily fast. This was fired from the Citadel over the El Moqattam mountains. Technology has replaced this habit so that now announcements are made on radio and TV and of course from the mosque. The Citadel is now a tourist attraction and well worth the visit. It has a very large mosque in the huge compound that is very beautiful, also a palace, still furnished in some magnificence and there’s also a fort although we couldn’t go into that part when I went there. There’s an amazing view over the city as well.

Iftar is considered the main meal of the day during Ramadan and is often very rich. Any type of food might be served, but traditionally the dessert (if you have one and we don’t usually) almost always includes konafa or qatayef. The former is a cake-like food made of wheat with considerable sugar, honey, raisins and different types of nuts (which Mohamed doesn’t like he tells me so I probably won’t be trying that). The latter is almost the same, but takes the shape of a small circular cake, which is folded to include nuts and raisins. But although we don’t normally eat dessert I did make Om Ali yesterday and we did have that after our meal and he said it was good!!!! I’ll put the recipe in because it is SO delicious!

On the last day of Ramadan, observatories again check for the new moon. The month ends after the 29th or 30th day, when the "eid el fitr" or feast and 3 day holiday begins.


That’s enough for now – it’s midday on day 2, I woke up about 10.00 am and Mohamed is still in bed as he didn’t actually sleep until after 4.00. I try to keep the noise down while he’s still sleeping so it’s a nice quiet and peaceful time for me too – reading, writing etc. Again today is not quite so hot, it’s to be around 36 I think and I don’t need the aircon yet but no doubt will later.

Anyway – here’s your sweet treat

Om Ali (or Omm Ali or Umm Ali)

200 gm puff pastry
30 gm ground almonds
30 gm ground hazel-nuts
15 gm raisins or sultanas
15 gm coconut flakes (not desiccated, the proper flakes)
4 tablespoons sugar
2 large cups milk
1 cup cream, whipped with a little vanilla (measure before whipping)

(You could also add 30 gm of ground pistachios, but then you will need to add a little more milk)

Directions:

Brush the puff pastry sheets with butter and bake in a 200 degree C oven (or according to packet directions if you use a packet – I do, I never did learn to make pastry properly). Let them get fairly firm and a little golden on top. In my oven this takes about 10 minutes.

When cool enough to handle, break the puff pastry into bite-sized pieces.

Mix the pastry with the nuts, raisins and coconut and put in a deep casserole dish. Mix it up well so that everything is evenly spread through.

Put the sugar and milk in a pot and bring just to a boil. Pour this mixture over the pastry, nuts and raisins.

Spread the whipped cream evenly over mixture (try not to leave any gaps anywhere including around the sides or as it cooks the milk will boil up and spatter everywhere – the cream seems to keep it sealed).

Bake 25 minutes at 200 degrees – it should just start to go golden brown on top and not be sloppy, a “firmish” consistency.

Mohamed says it’s eaten cold but all the recipes I have found say eat it hot or warm – I think I prefer it hot although it is also delicious cold, even if not so moist. You can serve it with additional cream or ice-cream or just as it is – sweet, creamy, nut crunchy, heavenly.


Enjoy!

Love until next time

Lyndall