Apologies

Apologies, apologies to everyone who reads the blog – now that I “Facebook” and we are busier I just find it hard to sit down and really write. Facebook is so bitsy, there’s really no concentrated writing but it’s kind of addictive and so easy to keep in touch with lots of people.

I posted an album of pictures taken on our bit of a trip around the Faiyoum on Facebook (look for me under Lyndall El Masry) – had a great day there really, seeing the water and all the greenery. And on the way out, not too far from home I looked off to the left and there were more pyramids on the horizon. They are the pyramids at Dahshur – especially the Red Pyramid and the Bent Pyramid. In fact, although there are really only the 3 (well 2 really) famous pyramids, Egypt has over 100 and there are many more in Sudan also. In fact they recently found yet another near Saqqara buried under 65 feet of sand. http://www.usatoday.com/tech/science/discoveries/2008-11-11-egypt-pyramid_N.htm

So who knows how many more there are out there? Anyway, I really want to go and take a closer look at these and get some photos but we haven’t managed to make the trip yet. Far fewer people go to see them so I’m hoping it will be easy to get good photos. I understand you can also enter the Red Pyramid

The Faiyoum also has a couple of pyramids and I didn’t get to see those either. I have now bought a little guide book to the Faiyoum and have discovered just how much we didn’t see. It’s a fascinating area. I knew there was bird life and a national park but I didn’t know there were flamingos and it’s a breeding ground. I knew there were the big waterwheels in the middle of town, but I didn’t know that there are so many all over the area that it’s the symbol of the governate. I didn’t know there is a huge fossil park known as the Valley of the Whales because of all the whale fossils there and although you can’t get off the beaten track you can still see some of the large fossil skeletons from your sand road. I also didn’t know that there are Roman ruins as well as pharaonic monuments and early Christian buildings. In fact there’s still a small monastery hidden away. So the Faiyoum has lots to offer and I really want to go back more often.

We also went up Cairo Tower one day – 187 metres – gave an amazing view of the city and even out to the Dahshur pyramids. So here we are on El Gezira Island in the middle of the Nile and we look to the south west and we can see the pyramids and to the south and we can see the Dahshur pyramids, to the east and there’s the Citadel and the Ali Muhamed mosque, Tahrir Square is just over the Nile and minarets are everywhere. It has really helped me to get a better feel for the city on the ground. I also put an album of photos for that visit on Facebook; even though it wasn’t terribly clear (and the air smelled awful up the tower) there’re still some nice views of the city and some of its landmarks.

I have been back to Ethiopia for 8 days, I really enjoyed seeing all the kids again and I managed to do a little work, getting a financial report ready for supporters in the US and also re-jigging the forward budgets. Also started to write the text for a new website for Youth Impact but need to finish this now I’m home. It rained every day so it was quite a change for me, even thunderstorms. Since I have been back we have in fact had one shower of rain here – our second for the year. Saw a couple of movies in Ethiopia, one of which was Slumdog Millionaire – I think it’s one of my new all-time favourites – I thought it was just an amazing movie. Interesting construction, great story, terrific messages – we all liked it so much.

Although I had a great time I had a litany of woes to do with my little trip. At the airport a lady put her bag down right behind me (and walked off to get a visa) in the passport line and when the man beckoned me to go around into a new line I turned around and fell straight over her bag fair onto my knees on the marble floor – really badly bruised them both and the right one is still sore. Then after 3 days I caught the flu, from which I am still suffering with a sinus infection and asthma. Theeeeen, coming home, in any one of my 3 airport security checks and searches and taking everything off, one of my Pandora charms came off my bracelet without me noticing and the flash drive fell out of my handbag without me seeing….. Hopeless! I think that’s all – otherwise it was great!

I’ve also created a Facebook page for Youth Impact Ethiopia – the aim is to spread the word as much as possible in the hopes that somewhere, someone with some spare money will help support the organisation and get it onto a secure footing – they desperately need financial assistance, they struggle continually and above all need to secure their housing. The other aspect of spreading the word is that they always welcome people to volunteer with them or just visit; they do get some US students to help tutor the kids in summer and occasionally have visitors stay at one or other of the kid’s homes. All interest and assistance is welcome. The library still needs books, the kids need clothes, and the list is never-ending.

Mohamed remains a non-smoker, I think it is around 2 months now – he misses it very badly but remains smoke free. He keeps threatening to return to smoking because he seems to have been far less well since he gave up than he ever was when he was smoking. I keep trying to tell him it will take time (he’s been smoking since he was 15) and that at first his body has to get rid of all the rubbish and he might not feel so well, but the explanation’s not really cutting it. Still, I am keeping everything crossed that he will stay off the cigarettes, mostly for him and his health, but also a little selfishly for me – life is much more pleasant these days…

Once he gave up Mohamed went to the dentist because he developed sore teeth and mouth but mostly to get his teeth cleaned. That was an exercise! Although the elderly dentist seemed very nice it was an eye-opener for me, I think my dentist that I had in childhood was more modern than this surgery. No assistant of any sort, no masks, bibs, spit suckers, cotton wads – the list goes on and on. The dentist’s desk was in the very small treatment room so I sat in the visitor’s chair at the desk and watched the whole thing. The filling composite was in the desk drawer. Treatment was very inexpensive. After several goes Mohamed’s teeth were pretty much cleaned but he does have special toothpaste to use for a while. All-in-all a very interesting experience….

Perhaps the biggest news is that the office is about finished, we have a company name – Nile Wave Travel – and the men from the Ministry come to inspect the office next Tuesday (Monday is a public holiday). All being well we will pay all the fees etc. in the following week and we very much hope to be able to commence business by 1st May. Given that Mohamed made a first application in November 2007, we made another in June 2008 and a third in September 2008 it does seem that we’ve been waiting forever. It’s actually the September application that’s been approved; can’t wait until we’re open. I think the office looks fabulous by the way. It will all be cleaned up on Sunday, will take some photos then and will put them on Facebook.

We have also been Downtown a bit, one of the main companies we deal with has moved down there just off Talaat Harb Street. Talaat Harb is one of the main streets in the heart of Cairo. One of Egypt’s best-known novels – The Yacoubian Building – is set in a real building at 34 Talaat Harb. I’ve read the book a couple of times so I always try and relate when I’m Downtown in this area. There’s a building being renovated on the outside and we think that is the Yacoubian building, right on Talaat Harb Square… And I went into Groppi’s – featured in another famous series of novels by Mafouz Naguib - who won a Nobel Prize – but didn’t find it had the atmosphere I expected. Cakes were amazing though…

Have also been to the local orphanage and met all the very beautiful little girls (35 girls aged between 3 and 7) and will go back and volunteer on a regular basis.

Also Logan is great – 4 teeth now, Lahni says he got 3 all at once at Easter. He’s very adorable.

Anyway, enough for now, I invite all of you to the Facebook page as well for the latest in photos, take care

Lots of love

Lyndall

PS – To Jeff Payne – if you lived in Singapore in 71 and 72 then yes we did know each other – glad you enjoy the blog, staggered that you ever came across it. Sorry I can’t reply to your email – comments come in as “anonymous” without an address.

A year ago - Ethiopia

It's Gabriel's Day and for almost half of Ethiopia's population this means a day at church, and a holiday for everyone. It was an amazing thing to witness.



At the entrance to a church, crowds wax and wane


The grass is sold to be laid inside the house to freshen it and also in some way to mark a new beginning or "fresh start".


A street seller







Crowded streets on Gabriel's Day


This woman smiles shyly as she sells her candles.


Some of the crowd in one street near a church, Gabriel's Day.


It's Gabriel's Day (after the Archangel Gabriel) and the citizens of Addis come out in their hundreds of thousands to celebrate. Impromptu markets are near every church and everything you could imagine is on sale, including candles and very colourful umbrellas used for offerings.


An Addis street


Koni and Dagem say goodbye with a typical open-handed slap "handshake". The harder the bigger the "slap" (that is how far back the arm is taken, and the slap never hard enough to hurt), the more affection and regard you have for a person (the same in Egypt). Once the hand is slapped a loose and quick shake follows.


The Emperor Haile Selassie's throne, in the Museum.


Dagem, one of the former street boys who lived in Ermi's House, or the Hope Centre, looks at Lucy's skeleton in the Museum. We went to the Museum on a "field trip". The boys were all fascinated with their country's history and culture. The oldest humans known have been found in Ethiopia. Lucy, several million years old, was discovered there in 1974.


"The interestingly named "I Love You Hotel"



Building scaffolding - I used to hold my breath watching the workers go up this ramp, bags of cement and other materials across their shoulders


A man makes his living with a sewing machine at his "shop" on the street


Pedestrians walk past one of the "plastic houses" of the homeless














Shoe shine "boys", some of the homeless of Addis. When Sentayhu asked me about shoe shine boys in Australia and I told him we didn't have any he couldn't contain his amazement and referred to it often.



Just a small supermarket


Near the end of the street that eventually leads to the girls' house (Joy Centre)


One of the small workshops where artists make goods for sale to tourists like me. I bought beautiful beads, a wonderful knitted shawl that I use all the time, saw weavers and artists at work.

G'day. I've been looking through some photos while I've been home and of course many of them are from Africa last year. I miss Ethiopia and all the wonderful kids and even Addis - I really found a heart-to-heart connection there. Sadly Konjit tells me that the Youth Impact Library hasn't opened again yet after the summer break when this year it closed down, not offering a summer program. It's all money of course, that's all, such a simple answer to this particular problem. Not even a lot of money.

Is there anyone out there who knows how to access around $30,000 US to make this amazing project basically self-sufficient for the forseeable future? $20,000 for one year's operation and $10,000 to set up the little business venture that should make it self-sufficient. Anyone who could help or who has ideas don't hesitate to let me know - PLEASE!

Anyway, I hope that you enjoy these few photos of Addis that you probably didn't see before.

Hope you enjoy,

lots of love

Lyndall

PS Tomorrow the kids go away for the day and so I will add some more photos and stories from the African trip

Impact Children's and Youth Library

The Impact Children and Youth Library Association (ICYLA) was legally registered by the Ministry of Justice in April 2005 as a local non-government organization (NGO). It commenced its service on December 2005 through financial support received from the Bank of I.D.E.A.S. in Australia. The preliminary funding from the Bank of I.D.E.A.S. has now ceased and other funding sources are being actively sought.

The primary goal of the organization has been to provide a safe and positive place for children from low-income families to come and learn, do homework, study, enjoy quiet reading time and engage in constructive extra-curricular activities, achieving their full potential and succeeding in their education. This role is expanding to include education for families, educational sponsorship of children and other physical assistance (such as the provision of bathing and clothes) when required.


Older students hold a discussion group on the library steps - the library is frequently full to overflowing



Books sent from Australia through the Bank of I.D.E.A.S.

The target group for Impact is the general student population (aged 4-19) in the Kirkos sub-city area. Since its establishment it has managed to collect, from local and international sources, over 6,000 children’s and teenage books on a large range of topics, mostly in English. Over the first 20 months more than 77,000 visits have been made to the library by children of the area. During the summer program over 300 children per day attend the library while over 220 patrons per day now are direct beneficiaries of these collections.


Reading stories on a Saturday - I really enjoyed this inter-action with the kids



Kirkos is one of the largest school districts in Addis Ababa, and we have found a clearly demonstrated need in this community for a library. In this area there are 50-60 kindergartens, 37 elementary and junior high schools (from grade 1-8) and three high schools, with a total of 50,700 students. Of all these students only the high school students have libraries in their schools. Very few of the students in the Kirkos sub-city have direct access to libraries, and even these libraries are poorly equipped and generally have out-of-date books and a lack of professional staff members. They are frequently over crowded, have problems with book shortages, and lack an adequate supply of books specifically for children and young adults.




Oral evidence from the children who attend the library suggests that often, exposure to the library provides their first model of reading and learning as a desirable activity. This has assisted them to develop their reading skills and cultivate study patterns.

Some children initially attend only because their friends come to the library. However, they then establish reading and study habits and have access to resources to increase their general knowledge and support their education.

The library, which is open 6 days a week for 10-12 hours a day, provides a safe and positive recreation opportunity, which was not previously present in this area. Children and young people can use the library to meet with their peers, develop social connections and skills, and also develop their leadership skills.

The library staff provides positive role models; they make all the children feel at home and welcome, and allow them all the opportunity to contribute to making the library their own.


A young student happily studies in the safe and comfortable library environment


Everyone pitches in to get the scoria into the tent to expand the library space. Many young people volunteer to assist in running and developing the library in the way they wish to see it move forward. The library staff are powerful mentors for others.



Mrs. Rodriguez, who was initially the volunteer Project Manager at Impact, assisted in securing funding for a computer resource room, as well as for an audiovisual room, from the UNESCO Information and Communications Program. Eighty-five students have taken basic training on how to use computers; over 160 students have been trained to use the Internet; over 40 children attend the weekly video shows; and 100 students attended each summer tutorial program given by young student volunteers, which has been run twice. Twenty-five students were involved in a summer drama and art club initiated by the students themselves. Twenty-five students have competed in a Q&A competition prepared by volunteer students. Students also come to play a variety of indoor recreational and educational games.




The large numbers of young people who attend the Impact Library daily to study in an atmosphere conducive to learning, who take advantage of every opportunity offered to expand their knowledge, and who observe positive roles models in the young people who operate and volunteer at the library, demonstrate the significant need for this type of facility for Ethiopia’s next generation of leaders.

Children from low-income families do not necessarily have access to the facilities and resources required to be high achievers at school and in life. A clean, safe environment that encourages the positive values of integrity and hard work allows these children to persist in reaching their full potential.


Every afternoon the library is crowded with young people engaged in study




As well, the young people are provided with a safe environment for entertainment and relaxation and given opportunities to be involved in a wide range of activities to which they may not be otherwise exposed. These include learning games, drama, arts activities and movies. They can meet and safely interact with their peers in pursuits that encourage positive attitudes and an expansion of their interests, as well as supporting their school activities.

A young patron takes advantage of all the library has to offer - and doesn't the smile say it all?

The library intends to continue with its range of foundation activities, including:
- Access to educational and recreational materials
- Internet access to support learning
- Film screenings
- Summer tutorial programs
- English classes when possible
- Drama activities
- Computer training
- Providing opportunities for young people to volunteer

The library also has plans to expand its services and activities to include:
- The sponsorship of schooling for extremely disadvantaged children
- The provision of an after-school small meal (milk and a piece of fruit or other food) for children
- The commencement of both a pregnant women’s and a mother’s group to enable them to make social connections and to discuss and learn about:
# Baby care

#Infant health
#Child & family health
#Parenting skills
#Importance of reading

#Nutrition
#Cooking
#HIV/AIDS
- Storytelling and reading sessions for children in both English and Amharic
- An increased range of summer tutorials
- Development of the tent annex to provide seating and shelving, and so to provide additional space for all library activities
- The publication of picture story books in Amharic

When the library becomes sustainable and the model is proven, expansion to other areas will be considered.

The estimated annual cost for the first year of the project was approximately US$30,000; however the library operated on a restricted budget of $20,032, with the staff reducing the amount by not taking any pay so as to allow the project to proceed. In the second year the estimated need was less than that amount, or approximately US$18,600, however staff are still receiving extremely limited salaries, and at times working on a volunteer basis. We plan to initiate various projects that will in time help us recover our costs. The main project to support the library will be the startup of a service enterprise – Ethical Business Services – offering secretarial and other business services, Internet services, book and DVD rental and stationery sales. A startup budget of a little over US$8,000 is required to make this a reality.

The library fills a desperate and demonstrated need in Addis Ababa and operates through the passionate support and hard work of a small and dedicated group of young people who believe that a library really can make a significant and long-lasting contribution to improving the lives of young people. Henok, Eden, Helena and Konjit are to be congratulated for making this dream a reality and for making such a difference in the lives of so many.

If you wish to help secure the future of this vital project please feel free to contact me for more details at lyndall.osborne@gmail.com

Will post more soon


Lyndall

The streets of Addis

A sleeping place is anywhere you can find a spot



Two young boys light a fire of rubbish in the early morning

The pre-dawn air in Addis Ababa is cool and a full moon is setting in the west as in the east the sky slowly lightens. We set out at 11.30 local time (5.30am in standard time) to drive through the city before the street people have woken or been woken by the many police strolling through the streets. Everywhere, bundles of plastic and blankets cover sleeping bodies, which lie in rows on footpaths, on the road and in the centre of roundabouts and road dividers. Some sleep amongst piles of rubbish, some huddled together for warmth and protection and some without covering on the bare stones, alone.

We pass a pack of street dogs also curled together for warmth and in their animal innocence it seems obvious that they have a simpler, easier life than their human counterparts just metres away.

We take the same route we took the first morning we came to the streets, when the enormity and tragedy of what I was seeing made it impossible to get it out of my mind and yet impossible to write about or even to talk about. It’s earlier today than it was then and so there are even more bundles still wrapped on the footpath like so much rubbish left out for removal.

As on the first morning we once again we approach the bus station; once again there are immense queues and crowds of people either going to or coming from the country on the battered and overburdened buses that pull in and out in clouds of black smoke. As we approach, a group of women and children who have recently packed up their beds cross the road in front of us. Sometimes driving the streets in the day we see a few women who sit together in the same place, begging with their children crawling or running around their legs. If begging doesn’t suffice to feed the children I can only imagine what is needed to be able to live. Ermias confirms my thoughts.

Potential passengers and street people walk around the piles of rubbish in the streets, both avoiding where possible the many police also patrolling on foot. Donkeys thread their way through the throng, not all are laden at this early hour, but all are constantly goaded by their owners to keep them moving. Men walk by with huge bundles of cardboard carefully balanced on their heads and down a side street a flock of goats, or maybe fat-tailed sheep, are herded by a young boy.

All around the buses and taxis, street dwellers able and disabled, young and old, beg, or sell small items; we see one young man running alongside a bus, finalising a deal with a passenger for a newspaper. Around the bus station the constant blare of horns, music and the cries of people shreds the cool and morning air. The clouds of black smoke from the ageing vehicles stings our noses, as does the stench of the piles of rubbish on the footpaths. Addis in the early morning assails all the senses.

Other street boys begin to set up their shoe shine stands, getting ready to catch any early customers. Some of them notice the ferangi in the passing car and wave or smile, asking for their photo to be taken. Further down the street a group of boys play soccer in the road. I ask are they street boys? Ermias says maybe some of them, but others will be ordinary young men who have no other space in which to play. As we approach another street “boy”, older, sees me taking photos and, pulling his blankets around him, he begins to dance, signaling and beckoning me to take some shots while he performs. I get out of the car further down to take more photos, street people still sleep on the footpath under a wall decorated with art, the boys kicking the football around them. One long kick comes my way and to cheers and laughter I boot it back into the game. A few final shots and we are once again on our way, leaving behind the ironic image of the art work and the homeless, a tattered blanket wrapping a sleeping bundle at the foot of a painted road leading to home.

Home?


We come to an open space in front of an Orthodox Church. Many homeless and beggars gather at churches and mosques, hoping no doubt that the faithful fresh from their prayers may be more generous in spirit. A fire is burning on the bare dirt and huddled close to it are two young boys, one of whom looks to be about 11. Something about the pair really stabs at my heart and I ask Ermi to stop so that I can offer some money and also maybe get a photo. The youngest boy comes to the car while the other hides his head. He is cold, dirty, bare foot, and I can see where tears have tracked through the dust on his face. I ask can I take his picture and he agrees, somehow producing a smile that could light the most remote corner of anyone’s heart. This picture says so much, is full of so much meaning for me that it becomes my most treasured of African images.

The light is growing stronger and fewer sleeping forms line the footpaths and roads. Once again I am in emotional overload and we decide its time for breakfast and coffee. And just like the first morning it’s difficult to eat much and the conversation is subdued and desultory. But despite the challenging few hours I’ve just spent I know that I will always be grateful and never forget that I’ve seen this side of Addis, that I’ve been able to better understand just one of the facets of this complex city and this beguiling country.

Addis Ababa has street people estimated variously between 100,000 and 400,000 – I can’t seem to find a definitive figure. They are people of all ages and both genders, some as young as three, others obviously in their later years. The young and women are particularly open to abuse of all types. Many spend their days chewing chud, a mild narcotic that helps the days pass in a dream. Some make a subsistence living selling lottery tickets, tissues or other small items. Many young men work at shining shoes. Others simply beg.

A variety of circumstances see lives come to this desperate pass. Over 50% of Ethiopia’s population is aged between 15 and 24. Many young people are orphaned, often due to HIV/AIDS, sometimes they are forced out of home through second marriages and failed family relationships or the inability of other family members to care for them. Rural people are drawn to the city in hard times seeking work, even though unemployment is high, some say 60%.
The organisation with which I was associated in Addis, Youth Impact Ethiopia, runs a program for young men on the street, taking 12 at a time into residential care for 6 months and providing not only formal schooling but also concentrated lessons in integrity, work ethics, self-esteem and discipline. Once the program is complete places are found in vocational schools and support is continued until the men find work. The program, based on love, understanding, developing moral strength and self discipline, works miracles in the lives of these young people, something I have seen with my own eyes. The program is deep, not broad, but is proving that this approach has significant and permanent results for individuals. In future, if the ripple effect comes into play, it may also profoundly affect Ethiopian society.

Youth Impact can be contacted at: ermi_zel@yahoo.com (Ermias) or konij2002@yahoo.com (Konjit). Any assistance would make a significant difference.


Love

Lyndall

Party time

Here we are all together


With Ledet, Tasfaye and Abraham at the back

Just to finish off my last week in Ethiopia if I can.

On the last Sunday everyone went off to church except 3 of the girls who were at home apparently not well but still doing some household chores - dealing with some vegetables that had been delivered by someone. After church time I had said that I would visit the boys and Ermi's house so off we went. Ermi's house was first and Koni and Ermi went off to a quick meeting while I stayed with the boys - we looked at photos again and just talked and kept telling each other how much we would all miss each other. No English lesson but I wrote some things they wanted - words to a couple of Gospel songs in English, a couple of sayings about courage, love, compassion. We also had a great lunch during which the boys celebrated with a big sort of thank you party for Ermi, Koni and Simon, with cake and candles and balloons. Some of the boys from previous "batches" came as well so it was like a reunion and a party. They sort of see Ermi and Koni as mother and father figures, Simon is the other guy who lives in the house and helps with teaching and running the house.

Koni headed off home, saying she had another meeting and left me there for Ermi to take over later and then on the the other boys' house. It was getting later and Ermi had me doing a couple of things on the computer, printing some files and things. The boys took off for another "lesson" and then Ermi and I headed for the other boys, via home to collect Koni.

It was getting pretty late by now, but it gets dark early in Addis and we often walked home in the dark. I could hear the girls getting stuff done and giggling away, deciding to play games with us by not letting us in. Finally however the door opened and I was greeted by EVERYONE all arranged in the courtyard with streamers, balloons, songs, Abraham was there with his daughter and US guests, Henok and Eden from the library, and the cooks from both houses and everyone shouting "surprise".

And was I surprised! I have to say that I had absolutely no idea whatsoever - I guess you can arrange a party like this when the guest of honour doesn't speak the language. Koni was telling me that when they were looking at photos and I thought they were all talking about the photos - no, talking about the party! And so on. And all the food that was delivered - not a week's supply but all magnificently prepared for one BIG night of celebration.

So there were speeches from lots of people, even I had to give one, and there were presents - the first one very early in the night from all the kids was a traditional Habesha dress and shawl into which I had to immediately change and enjoy the party - so that I was a proper Ethiopian mother. There were songs, and dancing (Koni says I have definitely been a very bad influence - there never used to be dancing - but everyone joined in even the shy kids, one of whom turned out to be a great dancer!) There was a campfire, and games and one where people picked by chance have to perform something, so there were jokes and little plays and all sorts of things and of course I was chosen by Sentayehu "by chance" and had to sing several songs including our national anthem (thank goodness I know the words!) . That was much better than the alternative, which they had decided was impersonating a kangaroo!!

And there was a present from the boys house and one special one from Tasfaye (a great pen with a globe on top to remind me of where they are all the time) The food was fabulous and I had to take first plate but I didn't get to eat anything of what was on my plate I was fed by everyone and in turn fed to others what I had. Abraham and his guests left fairly early but we partyed on until fairly late. I don't think I have ever in my life been so hugged, kissed and celebrated. I doubt there was a time the whole night where someone wasn't hugging me, holding my hand, sitting on my knee, having me sit on their knee. I kept moving all night trying to sit with and talk to everyone - we all danced together of course, Ermi kept everyone in stitches and it was just an amazing night that I will never ever forget. Henok took tons of photos and Navi also used the other camera so I have a good record of all the festivities and some great group photos.

So, the end was really drawing nigh! Only 3 days to go but still lots to do and goodbyes to say. I guess it will still take one more posting!

Gotta go, time is up on the terminal - still can't post photos sorry guys.

Some of you know that I have delayed my return by almost a week due to being ill - I will now be back on the 22nd. On another course of antibiotics and still not really eating (not that that will do me any harm) and really hoping that I will be completely fit by the time that travel time comes. Also dropped my mobile and had it run over, so communication is sparse again!

Will add more when I can

lots of love

Lyndall

Ethiopia again

The last full week in Addis seemed to really fly by but included quite a few important events. There was massive cleanup 2 days at the library and then a visit to the library by UNICEF; another visit to the streets even earlier in the morning; more sending of proposals to all sorts of places; a beautiful dinner with Terkle (one of the original founders of Youth Impact) at his home; a session with Ermi's boys and especially Yonas while he told me, for almost 2 hours, his story of how he came to be on the street and what street life was like for him; and on Saturday Yodi, Koni, Ermi and I went out of the city south again to visit Sodere, another hot springs pool that was very pleasant and relaxing. I took my laptop and did some work there and also had a swim and then promptly fell alseep for 2 hours!



I have written up Yonas's story and I'm waiting for it to be translated back to him and for him to give me permission to use it. Then it will be publication time. I cried almost the whole time he spoke, for once I did it quietly, tears just continuously pouring down my cheeks. I'm sure you'll understand when you read it. I became very attached to the older boys who had been so long on the street.



We did more visits to the Sheraton of course and got ready for my last few days in Addis, knowing that it was going to be hard to leave. I kept making lists of things that had to be done and then deciding what couldn't be fitted in. We decided that Friday would mark the last day of English and everyone began to get a little sad knowing that the end was coming.

I've got to go, I have visitors in the lobby and still have to have a shower.

More tomorrow

Love to all

Lyndall

Ethiopia - going to church on Sunday

The baby next to us in church

One of my best experiences in Addis was going to church. I only went on one Sunday, I mostly used Sundays to work while the girls weren't around. But I knew that I needed to go at least once just for the experience if nothing else.

It was 3 hours of music, prayer, rousing sermon, dancing, clapping, more ululating and a full house of excited and joyful people.

Because Koni leads a youth group and is well known to the pastor first of all I got introduced to him in his study beside the church. Church started with praying while he shouted us a macchiato (and Sentayehu and Aman, who had come with us had a Coke and a coffee too) and we talked about Australia, the States (where he lived for quite a while) and made other general conversation. He was called in and out a bit, but he was a really nice man (with a great smile, another gorgeous Ethiopian man) - his name is pronounced E-yoop, but I'm not sure how you spell it. So when the music started it was time for us to go in. There were empty seats at the front where we sat, only to be told that they were reserved for the people being baptised that day - over 80 of them. Still they just moved us forward even further and put seats in behind us.

The choir was singing when we arrived, and dancing and jumping and swaying were all included. This went on for over 30 minutes, only 2 songs, and the lead singer, a young guy called Asmama had an excellent voice. Then there were the usual things, prayers, offerings, the kids came in and went out, communion, a sermon, very rousing even if I couldn't understand a word the pastor had given me the gist before the service, more singing and then the baptisms. Singing and dancing all the time the people were being baptised. We left before they were all finished. All in all I don't mind dancing in church, especially when it's all as joyful as this service.

Aman told me he really liked it but Senti looked subdued, he found it very different to his own church and he also told me he "didn't like long". The noise level pretty much the whole time was amazing, people coming and going at will, amens and shouting and clapping at any given moment.... Once again, I knew I was a long way from home!

Can't get blogger to upload any images again tonight - hopefully I'll have Internet access again down the Nile, Alexandria today was wonderful. I have a 4.00 am start so I'm going to pack and go to bed.

Love to all

Lyndall

Ethiopia - the rest of week 3

The lobby of the Sheraton - well a little bit of it. There's some sort of irony in the fact that as you drive down the hill to the Sheraton you pass many homeless boys asleep in the sun on the hill

The rest of the week seems to have sped by very quickly – was a bit unwell in the stomach on Tuesday and so just worked at home and slept for 4 hours in the afternoon and felt quite OK again the next day – I suspect that something didn’t quite agree with me. I drink bottled water but everything is washed in luke warm or cold water and I do eat raw foods too. (This was one of only 2 problems in all of my time in Addis, the other time I suspect it was because I didn't take my malaria tablet with food - I was extremely healthy my whole time there)

On Thursday morning we had an appointment at the Italian Embassy with the Program Director of the Italian Development Corporation trying to get some money to support the library. We were there 2 hours with a lovely lady called Maria Rosario who couldn’t give us any money but who did give us some other contact details of an Italian NGO who may be able to assist. However Maria herself was absolutely lovely (badly wants to visit Australia) and she gave us both huge hugs after 2 hours (not quite what I expected), gave me a beautiful book filled with photos of Ethiopian children and is coming to visit the library on Friday afternoon. (As it turned out she got the time mixed up and didn't come, but has another appointment now that I've left Addis). She thinks that maybe there might be other possibilities for partnership with them. (We did go and visit Gabriella there and no, no money or partnership - they are working only in the Mercato - if Koni wants to replicate the model in the Mercato I think they would be extremely interested). So it was OK. UNICEF is on Monday. (UNICEF couldn't give any money either, however they did visit the library and were very impressed and have some thoughts about other ways to help)

Have made a steady stream of visits to the Sheraton to get money out of the ATM (and always to use the loo there – VERY noice as K & K might say). I can only access money on my Visa card (thank goodness I got one before I came) and it will only allow me to take 4000 birr a day – that’s about $550). Although it's cheap enough I see so many needs here and I keep spending. I decided that my gift for each house when I leave would be a working computer so that is 9000 birr. And I got a DVD for Ermi’s boys as they had a video player but no videos anywhere of course. I bought new T-shirts for the boys and shawls for the girls and shirts for Ermi’s boys and usually when I go visit the house I take fresh bread, or maybe cake, or snack food. The software and DVDs that I sent from Oz have come and the boys in Ermi’s house have been very impressed with the one about Australia. I have just given out the soccer ones – huge elation again – soccer is just SO big here. Any bare patch of ground is used to play a game. I saw one that they were sharing with the cattle and donkeys; it didn’t seem to hold up play much.

A number of the boys are runners and will have a fairly big race in a few weeks – as far as I can ascertain it’s 10 kilometres. My beautiful Senti is one of the runners – at 14 – he tells me he’s not as fast as the others as they are older (mostly 17). Masfen didn’t even know how far it was, only how long it took. They are all so thin and muscled – they look like long distance runners – and have the skinniest legs! And the whitest teeth! The girls don’t seem to do much sport but I think that a few of the girls are also running, but no-one seems to know much or to be able to tell me much. And they must only train at school.

At the big open area in the middle of Addis there’s a grassed terraced area where people sit to watch celebrations and in the mornings both soccer players (of all ages) and runners train. They seem to run along one terrace and then double back along the next etc. They tell me some of the runners are some of Ethiopia’s national runners. Anyway, when we went past later there were goats and donkeys grazing – it must surely be one of the only countries in the world where national athletes train on donkey grazing land. I want more photos of that too.

Koni tells me that even though Addis is at 8000 ft above sea level the top athletes still go to the mountains to train before big events. Haile Gabri Selassie is a HUGE hero here, there's buildings and roads named after him and everyone knows who he is.

Over the week I have seen:
- A woman lying on the roadside either asleep or unconscious with a small child sitting beside her being ignored by everyone
- Old men saying their prayers beside the road
- Horses so skinny you’d think they could hardly walk pulling carts with 3 or 4 people in them
- More rubbish in the streets even than Addis
- Some exquisite children in Awasa (one little boy gave me several hugs)
- Lots of beggars in the country towns, maybe even more than in Addis
- Kids who would run along beside the bus for ages waving and shouting hello
- Some lovely landscape with mountains and rivers, lots of flat-topped acacias
- A man asleep on top of a large load of potatoes as it sped towards Addis
- A load of prisoners in the back of an open ute with 3 heavily armed guards sitting with them driving through the middle of Addis
- A beautiful baby girl only 2 days old (born in hospital but sent home later that day)
- And lots, lots more, every time we go out I see something that I can barely believe.

I will really hate saying goodbye to the kids – Senti and Ledet especially. I wish I could take them home with me.

Anyway, lots of love for now

Lyndall

Ethiopia - The big bus trip

Everyone is on board and we're on our way


Week 3 in Ethiopia begins

Well I’ve once again seen and done a great deal in my week in Addis. I guess first of all my weekend was actually spent out of Addis and it was quite a wonderful experience. I saw all sorts of amazing things both good and bad, but most of all I saw 28 excited children and another 9 excited adults all having a fabulous time doing things for the first time – over and over.

We set out early in the morning before daylight – that was interesting in itself, getting everyone organized. There was a businessman who supports the centres sometimes who lent us a bus he has, and the driver, so that wasn’t a cost and we could all go in the one vehicle. Getting the bus up to the house through the very narrow, rocky streets took a while. We loaded 12 girls, 3 women and Ermi and Henok (who had driven here by car), a very large cassette and CD player, a huge amount of food, some of it in traditional hide containers (sort of conical) and other stuff that I had bought including a lot of fruit (40 oranges, 40 apples, 10 pineapples, watermelons, 40 bananas, 12 loaves of bread etc., bread and honey for breakfast on the road and juice and snacks). And, of course, about 8 mattresses up the back. The bus had bench seats, two people on one side of the aisle and 3 on the other.

So in the dark we make our way back through the narrow, rough and rocky streets and round through more of the same to the boys’ house. There we loaded 16 boys, 2 more male adults, more mattresses, more food and then a bed on top of the bus! So this was going away for a weekend Ethiopian style. We were minus the live chooks and goats that I saw on some other vehicles, although I felt their lack marked us out.

We drove south out of Addis for about 4 -5 hours (I don’t wear a watch here so I don’t really know) through traditional villages and farm fields – very small areas of cultivation of wheat, corn, tef (what they make injera out of – we don’t have it), round mud houses of one room with thatched roofs, thorn enclosures for cattle and goats. And the pedestrians – they were everywhere all along the highway, as well as small carts drawn by either donkeys or ponies (some of them very thin) that act as taxis and trucks. I thought we’d completely lost the gearbox at one stage but we did make it eventually to Lake Langano.

As soon as we pulled up everyone was out of the bus and down to the water – a very muddy brown, obviously full of silt, and quite warm on top and cold underneath. None of the kids could swim very much at all so I gave untold swimming lessons (frog kicking didn’t cut it) and some of them got the idea, others were not so keen to keep trying, and no one could get the idea of floating or of blowing the air out in the water. Some did quite well under water. I really had to watch them as they would get out of their depth quite quickly if not constantly warned. I did have to go out after one girl – Hosanna – who was actually screaming without anyone taking any noticed at all. Often Ethiopians don’t seem to take a lot of notice – of other people talking, of pedestrians etc. etc.

I was amazed at how cold they all got and at how quickly they got cold. It seemed like just a few minutes in not really very cold water (seeing as how I could get straight in). So out they would all pile into the sand (grey, coarse, volcanic looking) and bury themselves and then once warm, back into the water. I think I satyed in trhough about 3 in and out trips. Volleyball was also the order of the day and a kick of the soccer ball.

We stayed there and had a lunch that we’d brought as a picnic – the traditional injera and chicken sauce (packed in the big containers) for everyone except me for whom some rice was bought. Some of us then went to the bar and had coffee – and then come mid afternoon we all piled back in the bus and headed for Awasa – another hour and more south. This was where we were staying the night – the kids all sleeping in a church and me in a hotel. We went to the church (a small 3 or 4 roomed mud building) and unloaded all the mattresses etc. and then down to the lake and I shouted all the kids a boat ride. None of them had ever been in a boat before so for 10 birr each (about a dollar thirty) we all took a boat ride in the sunset.

Back in the bus and off to a local restaurant for dinner for everyone. It started to rain so no campfire, for which I was almost grateful – everyone was tired and the night seemed quite late enough. They took me to my hotel which was miles away from where they were staying and down a very rugged dirt track, past the armed guard (with the SLR) and through an avenue of trees (everyone worried about the bed on top) and into my room. What can I say – very bare, two beds (with mossie nets thank goodness) and a small bedside table and then the bathroom – one of those “toe-curling” ones, so I was into bed as fast as I could. Actually, although the bed sagged in the middle it was very comfortable and I slept incredibly soundly.

Up early and the hot water lasted long enough for me to shower, I was a bit concerned about there being any – bare wiring to the small hot water service perched on the wall, no shower curtains of any sort so a flooded bathroom. Off through the fairly nice gardens past the dark green swimming pool to the restaurant for breakfast. The hotel is right on the lake so the view was good. Monkeys everywhere but not too cheeky. Lots of birds. The manager arrived and introduced himself so I found out that the hotel has just been bought by Sheik Mohammed Al-Mahoud, the extremely rich man who has built the Sheraton in Addis – he’s famous here, I guess he’s the richest bloke in town, has lots of developments going on, the government recently gave him the award of the Developer of the Millenium. So the manager told me about all the plans to build right out over the lake and to completely refurbish everything – I guess if I go back in a couple of years it will be a completely different place.

The bus came and collected me (after having delivered the bed) and we headed for Wendo Genet – over quite a lot of dirt road, up over a mountain and down again. This is a hot springs and the swimming pools are hot and there’s a shower area with the water pouring out of plain pipes. So you take a shower and then into the pools – it got too hot for me fairly quickly but the kids were in there for hours. The toilets were my worst experience yet in Ethiopia – squats with the most unbelievable smell – unisex dressing rooms were also an interesting experience.

We were there quite a while until we had lunch at a nearby hotel (monkey in the dining room and all), took lots of photos and then we headed home, arriving home quite late with everyone pretty weary, although with the extraordinarily loud singing, screaming, ululating and clapping a lot of the way home, there wasn’t much sleeping happening.

Blogger doesn't want to upload any more photos tonight - I keep getting an error message. I'll try to add more tomorrow night.

Lots of love for now

Lyndall

Ethiopia - Going out with "the boys"

Ermi's "boys" - from l to r: Salelewe, Ferke, me, Ermi (behind), Yonas, Koni, Zelalam and Terfe (now no longer with the boys, he says that there is something in him that will always make him a street boy and he left the house not long after this) - Dagam is missing from the photo - I don't know how, he's in just about every other one...

Taking up the story...

This morning is Friday here and it’s a school holiday as it’s one of the Muslim holy days. At the moment I am still in bed listening to the girls at prayers and once again I know I’m not anywhere near home. Prayer is sometimes silent, sometimes spoken aloud, and sometimes sung (in Amharic with an Arabic, Indian sound to it). As in many other parts of Africa it seems that everyone has a voice worth recording – all the girls together sound quite beautiful. The only music they listen to is gospel music unless on one of the two TV stations there is traditional song and dance – and that seems to be about 95% of the time.

The girls seem to be having different “devotions” this morning with lots more prayers. Every Wednesday and Friday is fasting until lunch and praying day for the adults of the organisation. On Wednesday they did that here while I worked on the computer. First of all a discussion about problems and issues with all the children and Bible readings – then praying for around an hour I thought it seemed, again with some spoken and singing too, but just this low rising and falling chant.

Ethiopian dancing has to be seen to be appreciated – it’s the most incredible shoulder movements – up and down and in and out – when I watch some of it it seems to me to be a miracle that shoulder dislocations aren’t the order of the day. I got to experience being in the middle of it last Sunday night. I took Koni and Ermi and Ermi’s “boys” out to dinner at a traditional Ethiopian restaurant – usually only for locals so once again we were the centre of attention.

The "boys" l to r: Yonas and Terfe in front, at the back Ferke, Salelewe, Ermi, Dagum, Zelalam and Sisye (one of an earlier group who lives at the house)

Ermi’s “boys” are not really boys. There are 6 of them, aged from 18-30 (estimated, lots of people don’t know their birthdays or ages here) and they are all young men who have, until a month ago, been homeless – in the terminology here – “street boys”. One of them has lived on the streets for as long as 13 years. So they don’t have education. I bought them all new shirts and Koni and I were escorted out by all the men and once again I’m treated as someone really loved and special. I took my point and shoot and we took a huge amount of photos. They were so excited they could hardly contain themselves and Ermi, Koni and I had our photos taken with all of them and they had all sorts of combinations taken too, as well as group photos.

Zelalam watching as the waitress pours traditional coffee

Ethiopian food doesn’t have a huge variety of dishes, at least that I’ve seen. Injera, made from a grain called tef (which has been fermented in some way), is served with every meal. It is made like a very large thin pancake and is quite flexible. It is rolled into a roll for serving, but then unrolled and used as the “plate” (sitting on a real plate, either dinner plate sized if you are eating singly, or when eating together as a huge plate in the middle, maybe more than half a metre across). All the sauces are spooned onto it, or bowls of meat placed next to it (on little coal burners). To eat you break off a piece of injera with your right hand, roll up some sauce and into the mouth. People feed each other, at least you feed people you really like or care about. You should take it without getting their fingers. (and no-one ever refuses to take it). So Dagam, who was sitting next to me, rolled up some sauce and I took it – meat of course to the great consternation off others. Everyone was yelling at the poor guy so I had to work hard to make them understand it was all right. Injera is a grey colour and sort of sour. I can eat some of it but not a lot.

Anyway, the only food for me at the whole restaurant was “cheese with butter” and one injera sauce. It’s also made from tef, so it’s like eating injera with injera. However, the cheese with butter was much better than I anticipated, it was like a cottage cheese and had some herbs in it as well. One of the adults, Simon, ate raw meat – that’s what the rich eat – slice off a piece and roll it in injera and go for it. I couldn’t even look. Coffee after the meal, in small cups without handles, so strong you could stand a spoon in it and no sugar for me – it had vanished by the time I got my coffee. Still, it’s all part of the experience!

Afterwards, Ermi grabbed me by the hand and said “Lyndah (what I’m called here) – come, dance” and we promptly gate-crashed a wedding. So we were in the middle of all the dancing, singing, ululating guests and I had to dance! I was introduced to someone (I think the father of the bride or groom) and had to dance with him. Along with gospel music only, there’s no dancing encouraged (although the girls do dance to the gospel music and practice the traditional stuff) so Ermi dancing too was considered a great joke by Koni and all the boys. He’s told the boys it’s OK if you’re dancing with a ferangi, otherwise – not allowed! Some of the guests were incredible with the shoulder stuff – I figure you must have to do it practically from birth to be able to manage it!

Some of the guests really knew how to shake their shoulders!

Ermi and I join the dancing with the man in the suit (I think he might have been the father of the bride or something, anyway I had to dance with him)

This week it’s been more English (back to basics of writing and pronunciation), storytelling at the library, writing funding proposal letters and finding agencies to send them to (have an appointment with UNICEF next week) and finalizing the budget for the library.

Next - going out with Ermi to the streets

Lots of love Lyndall